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1

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Parmelia
[Shetland:] old granny's scrottyie is the famous brown crotal used for Harris tweed. It gives a chestnut colour with almost the glow of purple . . . These brown crotals (Parmelia saxatilis, P. sulcata and P. omphalodes) are the foremost natural dyestuffs of the north, some of the oldest and simplest and most plentiful . . . They flourish like terrestrial seaweeds. . . It was a simple matter to gather a gallon panful. The old folks used a shell as a scraper . . . The only tricky part of the job was to spread the hanks of yarn evenly amongst the lichen gruel so that they came out all the same colour. . .[Venables 1956:138]

Bibliographic reference: Vickery, R. (1995) A dictionary of plant lore. Oxford University Press, Oxford.


2

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Parmelia
The reddish-brown dye obtained from this species was used in the Harris tweed industry.

Bibliographic reference: MacIntyre, D. (1999) The role of Scottish native plants in natural dyeing and textiles. MSc thesis, University of Edinburgh, Institute of Ecology and Resource Management.


3

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Parmelia
. . . so much did the Highlanders believe in the virtue of crotal that, when they were to start on a journey, they sprinkled it on their hose, as they thoughtit saved their feet from getting inflamed during the journey.

Bibliographic reference: Cameron, J. (1883) The Gaelic names of plants. William Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh.


4

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Parmelia
The crottle lichens produce different shades of reddy-browns (see individual spp.)

Bibliographic reference: MacIntyre, D. (1999) The role of Scottish native plants in natural dyeing and textiles. MSc thesis, University of Edinburgh, Institute of Ecology and Resource Management.


5

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Parmelia caperata
Used by the Manx peasantry in the past as the source of a yellow dye (in boiling water).

Bibliographic reference: Lindsay, W. Lauder (1856) History of British lichens. Lovell & Reeves.


6

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Parmelia caperata
Clothing dyed with crottle lichen dyes (those that yield red-browns in boiling water) has some interesting traditions attached to it. It seems that, as the lichen is associated with the earth, it was considered a good idea to wear socks dyed with crottle if undertaking a long journey on foot. However, if crottle dyed garments were worn by sailors, it was thought that they might bring bad luck, or if the sailor / fisherman drowned, his body would never be recovered - anyone wearing crottle dyed garment sinks like a stone and What comes from the rocks returns to the rocks.

Bibliographic reference: MacIntyre, D. (1999) The role of Scottish native plants in natural dyeing and textiles. MSc thesis, University of Edinburgh, Institute of Ecology and Resource Management.


7

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Parmelia conspersa
In boiling water, this lichen yields a brown dye.

Bibliographic reference: Bolton, E. (1960) Lichens for vegetable dyeing. Studio Books.


8

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Parmelia omphalodes
This lichen, used in boiling water produces a deep brown dye, historically used in the dyeing of hose.

Bibliographic reference: Fergusson, C. (1878) The Gaelic names of trees, plants and shrubs. Pub. Inverness.


9

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Parmelia omphalodes
Clothing dyed with crottle lichen dyes (those that yield red-browns in boiling water) has some interesting traditions attached to it. It seems that, as the lichen is associated with the earth, it was considered a good idea to wear socks dyed with crottle if undertaking a long journey on foot. However, if crottle dyed garments were worn by sailors, it was thought that they might bring bad luck, or if the sailor / fisherman drowned, his body would never be recovered - anyone wearing crottle dyed garment sinks like a stone and What comes from the rocks returns to the rocks.

Bibliographic reference: MacIntyre, D. (1999) The role of Scottish native plants in natural dyeing and textiles. MSc thesis, University of Edinburgh, Institute of Ecology and Resource Management.


10

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Parmelia omphalodes
Modern dyers report that this, the darker looking of the two main crottle species, yields a warm ginger, or reddish brown dye.

Bibliographic reference: MacIntyre, D. (1999) The role of Scottish native plants in natural dyeing and textiles. MSc thesis, University of Edinburgh, Institute of Ecology and Resource Management.



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